Step Five: Don't you know that the time is right!

So just a little after midnight I set out with a headlamp on to light the way. I walked with a group of five people.

I'm no physicist, but for some reason the air inside packages swells at that altitude. My Energy bar packages inflated. Unfortunately, so does the gas inside your stomach. This gives you gas pains, but also makes you toot. Poor Lisa, who walked behind me.

It was a full moon that night, so it basically helped illuminate the path for the whole climb. The stars seemed to get closer with every step I took.



The steep part of Kilimanjaro that you see in pictures is what you are climbing. The crest of the climb is a place called Gilman's Point. Not sure who Gilman was, but I have a feeling he was a jerk because his "point" is very hard to get to. You have to climb on your hands and feet, and are working hard with little oxygen. Not a fan of Gilman.

From Gilman, its another hour to Uhuru Peak. Uhuru means peace, and was the inspiration for the Star Trek character of the same name. As you get closer to the peak, other trail routes start to merge with yours. It's such a rewarding time once you get to the top, sharing the reward with others who arrive when you do. I jammed my Canada flag into the sign (Upper left corner), had a sip of someone's beer, then called home.


Yes, there is cell phone reception at the top. From the top of Kili (the roof of Africa), they say you can see 7 countries. I only cared about one though...Canada. I called home and found out that Crosby had just scored to win us the Gold. What a feeling for me to hear that while I was at the summit.

We both kept up our parts of the bargains. I get to the summit, and they win the gold. Needless to say, I informed everyone on the way down who had just won the gold medal in hockey.

Kilimanjaro doesnt want to be mounted. You need a reason to finish. The mountain strips away all the crap from your life and tells you what the most important things are.

Step Four: I can give you more

So begins the longest day of my life. After leaving Horombo Huts you travel across the lunar lanscape called "the saddle". Its a cross between the surface of the moon and the place where the Grizwold's car broke down in the first 'Vacation' movie. Your goal is Kibo Hut. Its a long, slow ascent - a nice walk, but dry as a bone.

Made it to Kibo hut in the late afternoon. The advice from the guide is to sleep now until about midnight. Pssshh...please. I didn't sleep and not many people around me did either. At midnight, we climb again. Six hours straight up, on through the night and pole pole (slowly) so we don't pass out.

Step Three: Its just you and me

Horombo Huts. You can see the ultimate prize just in the distance there.

The cohort of climbers you go up with become very important to you. You wait for your friends at each camp and share your stories about how you are feeling and how your climb was. You also start to hear many tales from the peak. Many people come down disappointed in not having made the summit, others are in much worse shape due to the altitude or physical injury.

Anyway, I made it to Horombo and had a nice dinner. The dinner gave me some energy. After my meal I lightly jogged over to my hut, but when I got there, I nearly passed out! That little bit of exertion, coupled with the minimal oxygen, left me gasping for air. That's when I started to understand the magnitude of this climb. Horombo Hut is not even half-way in terms of altitude. I still had another 3000 meters to climb!

Step Two: There's so much we can do

The night at Mandara Huts was great. Clear skies, crisp stars and a bright moon. I woke up for a tinkle in the night and found myself surrounded by curious monkeys. Pretty spooky stuff when you are in the dark.

Met some great friends named Tony (Liverpool) and Lisa (New Zealand). Climbed up on day two with them.

You can see how the topography is changing here. No more jungle. More grasslands and succulents. No animals this high, except for mice and a few kinds of birds.

The next camp is called Horombo, and that's your goal for today. Get to Horombo and acclimatize to the rising altitude.

Step One: We can have lots of fun

From the Marangu gate, my porters and cook split off on another route and I started my trek with my guide (real name Lawrence). The first part of the climb takes about four hours.

You pass through lush forest. There are monkeys along the path and in the trees all along the way.

Your goal is the Mandara Hut camp.

Climbing Kilimanjaro: Step by Step

Well, I hinted that I had a great answer to the question "Where were you when Crosby scored in overtime?". The answer lies at the top of the mountain, but let me tell you how I got there.

I was picked up in Arusha by my Guide (Donny), my porters (Jordan and Jon) and my cook (Danny). On the way, The guide asked if there was anything else I needed. To be safe we stopped at a shop in Moshi town and I thought I'd get some extra batteries. I made the mistake of asking (typical Canadian) "do you guys need anything?" Next thing you know, the doors of the car fly open and they all go running to the counter with chocolate bars and cigarettes. Good thing those items cost so little here! A pack of cigarettes is only about 75 cents.

We drove to the Marangu gate of Kilimanjaro park from there. I signed in and started my climb.

Its Kili Time...Make the most of it

"Its time to switch to whisky, we've been drinking beer all night".

Like any true ambassador would, I've tried all of the beer here. Serengetti, Kilimanjaro, Safari, Tusker...

My choice is Kili.

Stoney Tangawezi

Ahhh...Stoney Tangawizi. You will be missed when I go back home. Once it hits your lips...its just so good.

This ginger beverage is made by Coca-cola over here. From what I hear you cannot find it in North America.

I'll have to try my best to change that when I go home. Either that, or i will just come back here for more one day.

Safari

This is me in my safari vehicle in Lake Manyara national Park. The park is famous for its tree-climbing lions.

I was told that the reason they climb the trees is due to the nasty ant-bites that they get when they are on the ground.



Its all here. Lions, buffalo, zebra, elephants, giraffe, baboons, hippo...

The town I camped at outside the park grows rice. The rice fields are a great mosquito breeding habitat.

Mount Meru

"Here I lie, on my own in a separate sky"



This is the view from the rooftop of my hotel in Arusha. That's Mount Meru to the north. Next trip here I will climb that mountain.

I had a great workout on the rooftop of my hotel in the afternoon. One of the staff had stuck a pole between two paint cans, which were filled with concrete. It made for a great curl-bar.

After a while, the hotel staff wanted to work out with me. I felt like Rocky, when he starts running through the city alone, but then everyone joins him as he climbs the stairs.

Price of Gas

Aside from "how is the weather", the next most frequently asked question we ask one another when travelling in Canada is likely "how much is gas in your town?"



The price of gas here in Tanzania is just a littel higher than what it was when I left home. If you were filling up in Karatu today, this is what you would pay. Coverting to Canadian dollars, this would be about $1.10-$1.20 per litre.

McMoody's

Did you ever see "Coming to America" with Eddie Murphy? Remember when he starts working for "McDowell's" restraurant and it is makreted to look the same as McDonald's. The only difference between the two restaurants was that one burger had no sesame seeds and another had them.

McMoody's reminded me of that part of the film. Its a small chain of restaruants here in Arusha.

I saw some children enjoying a sundae here one hot afternoon. It reminded me of back home, going for some ice cream after hockey or after a bike ride.

Teaching about Swimming Pools

I was lucky enough to teach an introductory class on swimming pool inspection to some EHO's here in Dar Es Salaam. I was telling my friends here that back home, my colleagues find it intimidating to inspect facilites when we may lack technical expertise. Pools are often such the case. Too often we rely on the operator to guide us though our inspection, rather than knowing the topic intimately.

The EHO's here were no different. They want to know about pool safety, so they were happy to have an introductory class on what to look for to be left with a higher confidence level in public safety.

In this photo, I am explaining how at my desk at work, when the bosses come by, I make sure to look frustrated and busy. That way, they think I am working hard.

The Centre of Africa

This famous traffic circle in Arusha is known as the centre of the African continent. Depending on which exit you take from the roundabout, you can go anywhere you want. One road leads south to Capetown, another north to Cairo. Head West and you would pass through Rwanda. Head East and you go to Mombasa.

The clock tower in the roundabout is a great landmark for me too, as this city is easy enought to walk around in. I am lucky I haven't been hit by a car yet though. The traffic is on the "wrong" side of the road, so I always look the wrong way when I cross the street.

Update from Arusha

It's a little bit harder to access internet up here, so I am sorry to keep people waiting. Costs me many Tanzanian Shillings to get online.

The largest note in Tanzania is 10,000 T-shillings. That is about 8 bucks to us in Canada. So, if it costs $1000 USD to climb Kilimanjaro, that's like 1 million T-shillings (and a huge bulge in my pocket - of cash that is). Therefore, purchases often involve handing over dozens of notes. No interac here.


Arusha is a growing city to be sure. The Lonely Planet Guide from 2008 says that the population is 3 million. Today it is 7 Million. More people + same infrastructure = Busy place.


War crimes trials for Rwandan genocide take place here. Free to watch. Fascinating.


Masai people everwhere I look. Imagine that!


Great stories from Kilimanjaro and Safari to be told. Will have more time on the weekend. I have the best "where were you when Crosby scored in overtime" story. I have met many Russians, Siss, Americans, Swedes, etc who are all envious that we won.


More later!

Dar Es Salaam from the air

Flying to the north part of Tanzania (the area where Mount Kilimanjaro and Serengeti are). Arusha is much different than Dar Es Salaam. Looking forward to a break from the City seeing more of the landscape.

This is a small part of Dar Es Salaam from the air. You can see the difference in the way communities are planned. Most areas not served by water, sewer and sometimes even power.

Buildings are made from concrete blocks. Roof material is often corrugated metal. To get around the city on foot, people walk to the highway and then travel up and down. No sidewalks, so the people are very close to cars as they pass by.

Dalla Dalla

The Tanzanians are very committed to their public transport. They crowd into Dalla Dalla's to get around the city (Called that because its costs a dollar..."dollar, dollar"). These buses are about the size of a Volkswagon van and often hold 12 people. There are a lot of them around. Factor in the heat, and that is a very sweaty bus.

Taxis are owner-operated here. They are their own small business. Taxis do not have meters - you negotiate a price before you set away on your travel.

Traffic in Dar Es Salaam is a nightmare. It can take hours to get across the city. Lots of pollution. In fact, in the urban district of Ilalla, respiratory infection is the number 2 health concern after malaria (HIV isn't even in the top 10).

So, if everyone is riding the bus, why is it so congested? Well, you must factor in all of the land cruisers and other SUV's. Mzungus like me prefer to ride alone in a huge SUV rather than on the bus. Similarly, as the middle class grows and the upper class prospers here, there is a corresponding increase in the number of people riding alone in big trucks and cruisers.

Yes, there is smog and yes, it sucks when you commute in the city and get stuck behind a diesel truck and have to breathe its exhaust.

Sterilization in a rural hospital surgical ward

As I see the things I see here, every so often I have what Tarantino reffered to as a moment of clarity. I mean, it hard to know what I can do personally, and what I can bring back to Canada in terms of initiatives. In fact, there are so many opportunities here that it can be overwhelming at times.

However, there are also moments when I know I am here for a reason and that I know I can leave a legacy going forward. Seeing the sterilization room at the Mkuranga District Hospital yesterday was one of those moments for me. I know exactly what I can do to help, I know exactly where the help is needed, and I know exactly who I can ask back home to help to make great things happen.

Laundry

Here we find hotel staff washing the linens for the facility. Sheets and towels are laundered by hand with simple soap and non-potable water. They are then left to air-dry.

Back home we use more specific detergents and hot air dryers for a reason. The removal of soil and the hot air serve to "sanitize" the linens. However, since that isn't an option here, the EHOs have a simple solution...white linens.

The EHO I was with asked that this hotel change all of their linens to white within one week. This way, it is possible for the inspector to be left with some kind of confidence that the sheets are being cleaned appropriately, Whereas a blue sheet may hide stains, white cannot.

The Goat on the roof

Call PETA. Someone left a goat on the roof of this building in Central Dar Es Salaam! Not sure if it is a pet or what. Man, the average temperature here in Dar is +33C. That goat must be sizzling.

Personally, I have liquified several shirts (and spoiled some great photos) with my excessive perspiration. Thank goodness Dennis Mazali's office has air conditioning! We are just a shade below the equator here, so the sun is both hot and dangerous. I put on SPF 50 and the sun still finds its way through.

Workplace / Occupational Health and Safety

For a Canadian visitng Tanzania, it is easy to spot the risks workers take. The safety precautions we enforce just do not exist here yet. When I worked for Alberta WH&S, seeing a man wearing no PPE, near the ledge of a building with no fall protection and jackhammering the very concrete floor he was standing on would have constituted an "imminent danger". That is not the case here.

Most urban buildings are constructed of concrete here. As they build a new storey, the fresh pads are supported by trees, not the steel scaffolds we would see back home. As Rob O'Neill might say, it could be argued that this kind of a scenario might not just be a workplace health concern, but moreso a public health matter. The rationale is that it is presumably unhealthy to have concrete fall on you while standing on the street below.

Occupational Health and Safety is on the radar here for EHOs. However, it will take a major cultural shift for the will of the public to choose safe worksites over urban development.

Dispensaries

Dispensaries are like a one-stop shop for the users of public health in Tanzania. Locals lack a way to get to a major centre, so dispensaries are created in the districts (both rural and urban) to make many important services accessible.




This dispensary was in a tiny village called Msorwa, which felt like it was a million miles from anywhere. The roads to get to this village are dirt and prone to wahsout in teh rainy seasons. Msorwa is a two-day bike ride to Dar Es Salaam and I saw many determined individuals making the trek.The goal for Tanzania is to have one EHO for every dispensary.

Bednets

Bednets are promoted as an effective physical barrier to mosquitoes - which transmit Malaria. The tricky part is getting people to use them routinely and properly. The Hati Punguzo program helps rural Tanzanians, who are limited in both means and finances, to aquire insecticide-laden bednetting at a reduced rate.

Expectant mothers who are seen by health offices are given a voucher for the program, which they then turn upon purchasing a new bednet. Maternal mortality rate is the target, and this is one of many programs that helps improve that statistic.

Proper use of netting is another thing. I was told a story of many thousands of bednets being given to the Tanzanian people from the Bush government. In many cases, instead of using the nets for mosquito protection, they were used to catch fish. It stands to reason. Being hungry is a lot more of an immediate concern than the chance I may get malaria.

The Catcher in the Rye

As I mentioned, on the flight over here I read Catcher in the Rye. When the cynical Holden Caulfield describes to his kid sister what would make him happiest in life he says:

I keep picturing all these little kids playing some game in this big field of rye and all. Thousands of little kids, and nobody's around - nobody big, I mean - except me. And I'm standing on the edge of some crazy cliff. What I have to do, I have to catch everybody if they start to go over the cliff - I mean if they're running and they don't look where they're going I have to come out from somewhere and catch them. That's all I do all day. I'd just be the catcher in the rye and all. I know it's crazy, but that's the only thing I'd really like to be.

Catch of the day

While driving into work yesterday, imagine my delight upon seeing this shark in the trunk of a car (Likely heading to the fish market for sale). I had the chicken for lunch.

Lessons at the well

Here are 2 third-year EHO trainees from Mohambili University at Yombo primary school, teaching the school children two important lessons. One, how to effectively wash their hands. Two, how to sanitize the tap and look after the water supply.

So often we talk about teaching and promoting handwashing. What struck me was reflecting on what it would be like to learn that skill for the first time. Certainly we take that skill for granted in Canada.

I think I can relate a little bit though. Allow me to try to explain. In my hotel room bathroom, there is what appears to be a hose beside my toilet. Well, now that the local bacteria culture has taken up shop in my bowels and things aren't as solid as I am used to, I would love to learn how to use that hose device. However, as I clearly have no idea how to use that thing, there is no way I am going near it.

OK, bad analogy. But I do think that there is something to it. Putting a well, cistern and tap between the washrooms and the schoolhouses is a wonderful idea, but without education they just sit there (and are likely intimidating to use).

That is where Environmental health comes in.

Saturday Morning Breakfast

That is the Indian Ocean.

This was my view at breakfast this morning. When I was a kid, if you would have told me I would ever have swam in the Indian Ocean, I would have said 'you're crazy!'

My grandmother would have loved the coffee here. She always said she took her coffee strong, tall and black - like her men. You only need half a cup in the morning and you're good to go for the whole day. Amazing stuff.

Environmental Health in the news

What has been so amazing about the first few days here (work wise) is realizing that an EHO is an EHO, wherever you are. It has been the great leveller on this trip. We battle very similar obstacles in our work, and we are all colleagues - whether we are students, field EHO's, academics or working as an NGO.

I saw these newspaper clippings in the library at Mohambili University (where the EHO diploma training is done). Students have clipped out stories related to environmental health. I remember doing the same thing at Concordia, and, more recently, in the lunchroom at work. Sure the topics may vary a bit, but the work is strikingly similar and the pride in our job is universal.

Getting the messages across

One thing I have been very impressed with is the empowerment and education of women. You see it everywhere. Many public health advertisements are intended on educating women. These are examples of public health related educational messages posted outside a girls' school in Dar Es Salaam.

I have attached photos that obviously relate to education related to HIV/AIDS (prevalent here), but other murals and advertisements can be found around the City dealing with water, smoking, midwivery and more.

Ministry of Health

Have had meetings with the Chief EHO for Tanzania.

These buildings are four stories tall. No elevators. The Minister of Health has an office on the main floor. Environmental Health is on the third floor and near the stairs. I thought this wasn't half bad and showed that EHO's are relatively important.

PS - Eho's are called EHO's here

Yombo School

I accompanied local EHO students as they taught handwashing and use of the school water supply. I was mobbed by the schoolchildren as a result, which was amazing and humbling all at once. This was a great experience. The school is just outside central Dar Es Salaam, and located in a relatively poor area.

True Africa. They even sang for me, which was beautiful.

Fish Market

Its been a long time since I have done a food inspection. Maybe some of my colleagues can help me...is food preparation on the ground outside something we allow?

This scene was about 2 hours into my first day of work.....oh mama!

Funny story. I inhaled at this location and could feel all of that delicious swiss airline food trying to creep back out. luckily it stayed down. I sighed in relief as I didnt barf,

which caused another inhalation....and nearly another yak.

pole pole

Sorry it has taken me so long to post. More to come soon. Flights were great overall. Dennis Mazali and Stewart Petrie are looking after me very well. So far i've been to the fish market, Ministry of Health, the EHO University, and a primary school. I have great photos to post later on tonight.

I am in great health and loving this experience so far. Later.

PS - I did try the foot thing and it calmed me down nicely.

Sunrise in Zurich

Doing well. Went from Edmonton to Ottawa to Montreal to Zurich with no problemos. Here are the highlights so far:

- Swiss Keyboards are different. It took me forever to find the @ sign.
- Metal cutlery on the Swiss Airline...oh la la
- Got my bag searched in Zurich because I brought some Maple Syrup for my hosts
- Its true...in Europe, a danish is called a Vienna Bun

The sun is rising here in Zurich. Its a bit foggy too. Im reading Catcher in the Rye instead of studying Sawhili. Bad Jason.

From what I hear, the Swiss are meticulous about their knives and watches. Im going to investigate the duty free (I like to shop in the duty free shop)

Talk to you from Africa in about 12 hours or so.

I'm going to feel the rain down in Africa

Ah...Toto.

Mom and Dad,

By playing this record as many times as you did during my formative years, you have rendered me helpless to the fact that this song has been playing in my head for the last 6 months. Oh well, I forgive you and love you both. Ha ha.

Tonight, the song is ringing in my ears and has officially eclipsed "I want a hippopotamus for Christmas" as my least favourite song.

Welcome to the party, Pal!

As I look for ways to keep people interested in my blog, I thought I would start with sharing my anticipation for the long flight...which begins tomorrow morning.

Remember in the first Die Hard when Jon McLean is visibly nervous to be flying? The guy beside him, a seasoned traveler, offers him some tried and true advice...

"When you get to your destination, take your shoes and socks off, and rub your toes into the carpet".

Well, I hope my hosts have seen that movie, because after two days of flying and 10 hours of time change, I am certainly going to be looking to rub my bare feet somewhere soft, and seeing if that advice really works or not.


...this exchange has international incident written all over it!

I'll be on a plane in two weeks!

My flight goes from Edmonton to Montreal, then to Zurich (Switzerland) and finally on to Dar Es Salaam (Tanzania).

If any of you are fans of LOST like I am, you can imagine that I am grateful not to be flying on Oceanic or Ajira airways!

Now my feet won't touch the ground!

Three weeks to go! After sharing my thoughts on sleepless nights with a good friend, I was given some great advice from that same good friend.

Think of the warnings that travelers to Canada hear before they come here.
1) Don't eat beef or lunch meat.
2) Watch out for ice storms and other extreme weather.
3) Political instability with elections every year.
4) West Nile virus, H1N1, SARS, etc

If I can make it here, I can make it anywhere! That sure helped me put this massive trip into some perspective. Thanks friend!

Sleepless nights

I am learning not to read Lonely Planet travel books before bed. The information tends to get me (subconciously)worried a bit as the books often tell you "what can go wrong".

Reading that before bedtime has been giving me nightmares and sleepless nights!

Practise

I am just making sure I know how to upload photos to this blog. In five more weeks, I hope to be able to bring you photos of a much larger member of the cat family.....
the KING of cats in fact!